Settling in phase

I can finally say I’m feeling settled here in Dakar, Senegal. All of my stuff arrived, including my consumables. So I have most of the creature comforts of home. Granted, running water sometimes disappears, and some mornings mid-shower my electricity will go out, and the Harmattan days make my lungs unhappy, but other than that, I’m living a pretty ‘normal’ life.

A couple of weekends ago, I got a real carpenter to come in and screen in three of the balconies so that my cats can spend more time “outdoors.” They absolutely love it, and I like being able to have some of my doors open without having to worry about mosquitos. My apartment compound is filled with flowers and birdsong most of the time, so it is quite pleasant.


I’ve been also getting settled in at work. It’s nice to feel useful again after 7 months of just learning a language in Virginia, where it was difficult to show demonstrable results on any given day. Here, I know how many passport applications I’ve processed, how many babies I’ve determined qualify as American citizens, etc. I have too much work, but it is better than too little. And the work days usually fly right by. I’m usually too tired after work (after interviewing anywhere from 3-6 hours at the consular windows) that I am not very social.

However, on the weekends I typically go out to eat with new-found friends, go to parties, host board game nights, or chill at the beach. The first couple of months were a struggle, but I am making friends gradually and getting invited out to do fun things.

There’s none of the drama of Bangladesh (knock on wood), where I think part of me always expected to get a phone call about another terrorist attack. I remember constantly checking my work phone to make sure we didn’t have any emergency messages, and just feeling slightly stressed at all times. When I first arrived in Dakar and ‘braved’ walking down the road, I was constantly on high alert. Looking around me to gauge potential threats, walking fast, clutching my bag. Over the past couple months, I have eased up on the constant vigilance. Now, I stroll down the street, enjoying the sea breeze and sound of birds in the palm trees. I sometimes even take the long way home from work to spend a little more time outdoors.

Also, I bought an SUV! I enjoy driving it around town, but still need to get up the courage to take it to one of the beaches, which are about an hour and a half away. So far the traffic is nowhere near as insane as Dhaka. Then again, what traffic could ever be that bad? Drivers are terrible here, but at least I don’t also have to contend with rickshaws, tuktuks, people crossing without looking in either direction, huge trucks and busses and all other manner of craziness. Here mostly I just have to worry about taxis staying in their lane, which so far has been ok. And the roundabouts everywhere, which I am not a fan of but am getting the hang of gradually.

While it is warm now, I am looking forward to a hotter season when I can swim in the ocean and outdoor pools. Maybe I should take up surfing?? Also looking forward to mango season! There are fruit and veggies stands within walking distance of me, and I can get pretty much any thing I want. So instead of ordering in (so expensive), I am finding joy in cooking for myself again.

In the next couple months, I have a trip to Cape Verde and to the St. Louis Jazz Festival planned. While Dakar is fun, it’s also nice to have trips further afield to look forward to.  À tout à l’heure!

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Senegal, na nga def!

Well, I’ve been in Senegal for about a month now. I haven’t been able to post previously because I didn’t have good wifi until now. I’m getting settled in, I have my computer actually set up, and my apartment is finally feeling like a home. The diplokitties also seem to be doing OK. They enjoy gazing out the window at the many birds that live in my compound. I was able to screen in one of the porches so that they could go out there from time to time and get up close and personal with the birds, without actually killing them.

Work is interesting. I’m doing a little bit of everything – American Citizen services, immigration visas and a smattering of non-immigrant visas. It’s a small section, with a stellar local staff. The Embassy itself is gorgeous – situated on the western most tip of mainland Africa, I eat lunch overlooking the ocean. There is definitely no shortage of work to be done, but I feel like I can really contribute to the section here, and that makes the job even more worthwhile.

And what about when I’m off work? Starting life over when you don’t know anybody in a city (or even in the entire country!) is daunting. Learning how to buy groceries, figure out negotiating a taxi, learning where the safe and not-so-safe places are is exhausting. That said, Senegal has some great spots and I’m enjoying slowly checking them all out. I am still carless (but working on getting a car) and that limits me. Once I get some wheels, the road is mine! In the meantime, I’m relying on the kindness of strangers, who are becoming friends, to cart me around.  I’ve been to the beach a couple of times and felt like I was in paradise each time. I guess I could get sick of sitting under the shade drinking a cold beverage and listening to the waves, but that may take me some time yet. Plus, the weather is just stunning at the moment. Breezy and sometimes even a little cool, the sun reigns over everything. And I’m really enjoying the food. Fresh fish, shrimp, and new foods like poulet yassa and thieboudienne. I am not going hungry!

I feel like I have barely scratched the surface of what Senegal has to offer. There are bird sanctuaries, national parks, mangroves, farmer’s markets, concerts, delicious restaurants, lively markets, a mall, movie theatres, a pink lake, desert dunes, gorgeous resorts, and more! Getting to know a foreign country is one of the reasons I wanted to join the State Department – unfortunately, that did not happen in Bangladesh due to the security restrictions. That makes coming here even more exciting. Senegal is generally safe (knock on wood) and developed. Plus, I hope to plan some awesome trips outside the country to to places like Morocco and Cape Verde.

Stay tuned!



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À La Prochaine

After a frantic rearranging of my test date due to the day of morning for President George Bush, I managed to eke out a 3/3 on my final French exam. Apparently this means I have “Professional Working Proficiency.” For the Foreign Service Institute’s testing purposes, it meant I can give a presentation on a variety of topics, ranging from the pros and cons of immigration, the effects of climate change on the global economy, and more. I can also hold conversations and get my point across. It remains to be seen how this translates (pun intended) into real world Embassy work. I’m looking forward to getting out into the real world and flexing my French skills.

The past 7 months have been a lot of work, and I’m happy it paid off. Sitting around talking about things in another language for 5-6 hours a day sounds like fun at first…but after the 3rd month, it gets old quick! Mostly I’m happy because it means I can leave for post on time. And by on time, I mean next week! I’m so excited to join the U.S. Embassy in Dakar, Senegal. I’ve known I’m going to Senegal for about 2 years now, and it’s always seemed like a distant dream. Now departure is upon me, and I’ll be spending the day today sorting through all my stuff.

Moving to another country is never easy, and there are so many moving parts that you fear you maybe forgot something essential. I’m also attempting to transport two kitties who hate to travel across an ocean, so that adds an additional spice to the mix.

Senegal is also a consumables post (unlike Bangladesh), and my Thursday night was spent filling up carts with Costco goods – shampoo, cleaning supplies, etc. I know that Senegal will have a lot of what I need, but it’s nice to save some money by buying in bulk and knowing I have the things and brands I like. But now I have to prioritize what is going in the suitcases versus what is going via air shipment versus what is going via a ship. Once I arrive in Senegal, I’ll have 4 shipments coming to me! 2 “ship” shipments (one from Bangladesh!), plus consumables and UAB. It’s a lot to juggle – and how did I acquire this much stuff??

I’ll keep you updated, and hopefully the next update will be from my new digs!! The diplokitties are about to get an upgrade.



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Round Two, sneaking up on me

I realized this week that I have less than 2 months until departure. I swung into action, attempting to begin the stressful task of moving me and my household (i.e. two cats) across the ocean again. I feel a little more prepared for this than I did in 2016, but it’s still a lot to take on alone. The diplokitties need dental work before we set off, I need to figure out how consumable shipments work, and I don’t actually really know anybody in Dakar – whereas when I was going to Bangladesh I already had a few friends from language class.

French is progressing. I took my “interim” test and got a 2+ (oral) / 3 (reading). I need a 3 in both to be able to go to Senegal. Luckily, this means I only have to re-test in the oral, so I can focus on my speaking for the next 4 weeks. I also have a new French teacher who I really like. I still feel like I am speaking like a 4 year old who is trying to speak like an academic, so there’s that. But I’m still fairly confident I’ll get to where I need to be.

In addition to attempting to learn an entirely new language, I have been trying to soak up as much fall weather as possible. Fall came a little bit later this year due to hurricanes and whatnot. Nevertheless, I was able to get out to Shenandoah National Park and surrounding areas a few times, including a couple of lovely cabin rentals and some wine tasting days.

I still have a lot to do in the next 6 weeks to get sorted and ready to go. I’m sure time will fly, and I’ve got some fun things planned for the coming weeks! Wish me luck!

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Late one night last week, I received a Facebook notification from my A-100 group. One of my colleagues was congratulating folks who were tenured.  As I didn’t have access to my work email to view the cable and results of the tenure board, I frantically messaged my colleague to ask if I was on the list. I was!! I was recommended for tenure by the Department of State Commissioning and Tenure Board!!

For those of you not familiar with what this means: Foreign Services officers start as “Entry Level Officers” on a 5 year probationary period and are considered for tenure after 36 months. They get three chances, and if they are not tenured by that time, their limited term ends and they are separated from the Foreign Service.

The qualifications for Tenure seem a little tenuous to those of us who spend our days attempting to be innovative and awesome in Embassies and Consulates around the world. The basic gist is:

“The sole criterion for a positive tenuring decision will be the candidate’s demonstrated potential, assuming normal growth and career development, to serve effectively as a Foreign Service Officer over a normal career span, extending to and including class FS-01.”

So I guess I did that! I am also happy that half of my A-100 colleagues were tenured right alongside me. I’m relieved that it happened and I can stop being on pins and needles waiting for the results to come out, though at the moment, I’m only recommended for tenure – Congress still needs to approve it, which will take a few months. If/when they do so, I’ll be a real career member of the Foreign Service, with all that that entails.

In other news, I’m more than halfway done with French language training, which is hard to believe. I still feel rusty while speaking. It feels like moving through quick sand sometimes to try to come up with the words to complete a sentence in an intelligible way. Most times I fail. Some days are better than others. That being said, I was told I’m progressing as I should and am around a 2/2 level which is limited working proficiency.  As in the description of the ILF level, “errors are frequent.” At least I have great classmates!

That is about all that is happening in my life right now. I’m trying to get outside and do fun American things. I’ve been tubing down a river, biked alongside the Potomac, had my family visit me, and spent good quality time with my cats. I absolutely cannot wait until the fall – bring on hot cider, crisp blue skies, colorful leaves, and fall festivals. And of course…learning French…but in less humid, hot conditions!

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Holey Attack Remembrance

Today marks the 2 year anniversary of the Holey Bakery Terrorist attack in Dhaka, Bangladesh.

Holey Bakery was a restaurant  that I, and nearly all the expats in Dhaka, visited frequently. It was a routine for the consular officers in particular to go there for brunch on the weekends. In fact, the day after I arrived in Dhaka to start my first FS posting, my social sponsor took me to Holey to enjoy some respite from the bustling city. Holey was nestled at the end of a road, next to Gulshan lake. Once you entered the grounds, you felt like you were in another city entirely – greener, cleaner, quieter. The food was outstanding, the view lovely, and in general, it was one of the most popular places for expats and Bangladeshi’s alike.

I remember browsing through the “Deshperate in Dhaka” Facebook group and seeing somebody in the Gulshan area posting a comment about gunshots in the area. I was concerned, but hoped it was just fireworks. Never could I have imagined the devastation that would follow. As time progressed, the Embassy was put on a ‘stay where you are’ type of situation, and we could only try to glean what was happening from other Dhaka residents and, eventually, CNN. When we realized it was all going down at Holey, we were shocked. It is only by a stroke of luck that no Embassy personnel were there – the terrorists had picked a weekend when most of us were out of town and a later time period than most Americans eat. Several of my friends had either been there earlier in the day, were planning to go the next day (like myself), or had been on their way when their plans changed.


The events of that night are horrifying. The manner that most of the victims were killed, the stories of heartbreak and terror, the brave self-sacrifice of Faraaz Hossain…It’s unimaginable. My apartment was about a half mile away. I could hear the gunshots, the explosions, and did not know what was happening. I sat up most of the night with my neighbor (a fellow FSO), and then the next morning cowered in my bedroom. I’ve run through the scenario countless times, my mind wondering what would have happened if I’d chosen that night to eat dinner at Holey. The next day found 20 hostages (18 foreigners and 2 locals), 2 police officers, and 2 bakery staff murdered. All 5 attackers were killed as well – and something that made the attack somehow even more horrifying was that these 5 young men came from the wealthy elite. They could speak English and wore western clothes. They’d attended the best schools in Bangladesh. Yet somehow they were part of ISIL, willing and eager to kill Westerners. It changed the game of how many people thought of terrorist organization recruiters.

The next few months were filled with uncertainty – most of the spouses and all of the children of Foreign Services Officers were evacuated. Our movements in public were effectively cut off. I had nightmares of terrorists overcoming my apartment building. I bought a baseball bat and placed it next to my bed. Loud noises made us all jump (and there are a lot of loud noises in Dhaka!) It felt like we were waiting for the next attack.

I spent the next 22 months of my service in Dhaka severely limited in movement, but with a vibrant community of people that helped me cope. Game nights, sports teams, rooftop parties, and simply just hanging out with others made the situation much better than it could have been. Things appear to be getting better in Dhaka nowadays, but I think the repurcussions will still affect the community for years to come.

Today I am thinking of all those who died or lost people they loved in this senseless attack. Stay strong, Bangladesh.

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Je parle un peu français

I left Dhaka, Bangladesh the beginning of April after a flurry of goodbye parties and packing. I’m now back at one of my favorite places, the Foreign Service Institute, learning French. I will have to obtain a level 3/3 to be able to depart to my next post (Dakar, Senegal, in case you weren’t paying attention!). My life right now is 5-6 hours of language training a day, 5 days a week, plus homework and self studying. It is intense, but I’ll be glad to French once I get to Senegal. Plus it will come in handy in future bidding. Bengali was fun and challenging to learn, but I would only be able to use it in two posts – Dhaka and Kolkata. French opens up a lot of countries I can go to in the future.

Once I get to a 3/3 level in French, I should be “able to speak the language with sufficient structural accuracy and vocabulary to participate effectively in most formal and informal conversations in practical, social and professional topics.” For example, I would be able to “use the language as part of normal professional duties such as answering objections, clarifying points, justifying decisions, understanding the essence of challenges, stating and defending policy, conducting meetings, delivering briefings, or other extended and elaborate informative monologues.” Since I’m not even sure I can do this in English most of the time, it will be a challenge! 

Since my last posting, I was able to travel to Singapore for a weekend as well as to visit friends in Oman. Oman does not strike most people as a place to go to for vacation, but I wholeheatedly recommend it. I had a blast even though I was only there for a few days. We went to a secluded beach, and to a stream in a canyon where we swam through emerald green water to a cave that actually had a waterfall inside. Unreal!



After departing Dhaka and saying farewell to my awesome driver, housekeeper and everybody at the Embassy, I headed back to my hometown for  home leave. I travelled with my family to Yosemite (gorgeous!), then left them to visit my friend in Washington where we expored the Olympic Peninsula, then I left her to head up to Alaska for some mountain time. Highlights included biking around Yosemite with my family with gorgeous weather and amazing views, strolling along a gorgeous beach at low tide with my friend in Washington, and going on a glacier cruise where a pod of orcas came right up to our boat.



Home leave was good overall, though it felt strange to have no real task for 5 weeks. It’s hard to relax once you’ve been going non-stop working and travelling for 2 years. I guess that’s the point though – to get some rest so you can recharge and get ready for your next challenge. Plus, connect with my Americanness again.

I’m  enjoying the U.S. so far. It’s nice to be able to walk outside, go to restaurants, catch up with my A-100 colleagues and folks who also served in Dhaka. I love my apartment. However, I am really really excited to be headed to Senegal in 6 months. I love the ocean, and I will be living within a short distance of it, so that’s pretty fantastic. I have heard the Embassy community is supposed to be good, and a lot of people choose to extend their service. Many of my colleagues and friends did not understand why I put Senegal first on my bid list. It’s simple to me as it checks all my boxes – A cool location (ocean, wildlife, deserts, fun travel opportunities to nearby countries), a great Embassy community, freedom of movement, fulfilling and interesting work, direct flights back to the U.S. (no more 30 hour flights!), great food (seafood!!!!), fantastic culture – music (Youssou N’Dour. Baaba Maal, hey even Akon is of Senegalese descent), art, dancing, hardship differential (to pay for my fun travel opportunities)….what’s not to love??

Recently I added to my family. I adopted a new kitty. She is a rambunctious little thing who likes to annoy my first kitty. Hopefully he will start liking her a bit more as time goes by. Does she look ready to travel??Fleur

Well, that’s about it for now. I will be a better blog-updater now that I have a little more free time on my hands. Thanks for reading this especially long post!

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